Meister



(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 1.

- F. BEIERMEISTER, Jr.

METHOD OF MAKING GOLLARS.

No. 345,947. Patented July 20,1886.

- IN'VENTEIR N. FETERS. Phmo-Liuw n her. Wnhin qon. D. C.

(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

' Pi BEIERMEISTER, Jr.

METHOD OF MAKING GDLLARS.

No. 345,947. Patented July 20, 1886.

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Uivirno STATES PATENT Uncles.

FREDERICK BEIERMEISTER, JR, OF TROY, NEV YORK.

METHOD OF MAKING COLLARS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 345,947, dated July .20, 1888.

(No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, Fnnnnnrcx BEIER- MEIsrER, Jr., a resident of the city of Troy, in the county of Rensselaer and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in the Method of Making 001- lars; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, that will enable others skilled in the art to which it apperiaius to make and use the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, and to the letters of reference marked thereon, which form a part of this specification.

Similar letters refer to similar partsin the several figures therein.

My invention relates to improvements in the method of making apparel-collars The objectof my invention is fully explained in the following specification.

My invention consists in the novel methods of construction and arrangement of parts hereinafter described, and pointed out in the claims.

Figure l of the drawings is a view in perspective of myimproved collar having the top part turned down at one end and extended at the other end. Fig. 2 is a view of the extended end shown in Fig. 1, with the facingply turned back to show the relative position of the parts. Fig. 3 is a cross-section taken at the broken line 00 o: in Fig. 1. Fig. at is a cross-section showing a modification. Fig. 5 is a erosssection showing old method. Fig. 6 is a plan View of one end of an unfinished collar with the band edges turned up to show the process of manufacture. Fig. 7 is a crosssection taken at broken line 03 m in Fig. 6. Figs. 8 and 9 are plan views of opposite sides. Fig. 10 is a crosssection taken at broken line as as in Fig. 9. Figs. 11 and 12 are cross-sections showing modifications.

Turn-down collars are usually made of two distinct parts, the part adapted to be turned down being called the top and the other part the hand. These parts are cut, one or both, with curved edges, and are united by a bandseam along the curved edge or edges, to form what is known as a spring-curve, whereby the fit of the collar is improved and room is afforded between the parts when in use for a neck-scarf.

Attaching one part to the other is called "banding. Both parts are usually made of two or more plies. The outer surface-ply of the top, which is exposed to view when the top is turned down and in use, is called the outer ply, and the other surface-ply of the top, which is concealed from view'when turned down and in use, is called the back ply.

A is the top part, and B the band part, of the collar. The two strips of fabric f and g are banded to one edge of the endfolded back ply, D, of the top by a banding-seam, S, as shown in Fig. 6. The end fold, F, is ineloscd at one end between the plies of the band. As both ends of the collar are substantially alike, only one end is shown. The outer ply, 0, may beintegral with the back ply, as shown by dotted lines in Fig. 10; or when it is desired to make the back ply of a less expensive material than the outer ply the plies may be united by a longitudinal scam, (1, making the plies pratioally one, the outer ply being folded at its ends to produce the folds F. The outer ply is then folded from its extended position, which may be that shown in Figs. 6 and 7, over upon the back ply by a longitudinal fold contiguous to the line occupied by seam a, so that the outer ply will overlap and conceal the band-seam on one side of the band and occupy figures, or part way to the bottom, as shown in Fig. 12, or to be turned in between the lower infolded edges of the band-plies before they are stitched together. any desired number of interplies I, (shown in Fig. 4-,) to give additional stiffness to the collar.

As collars are usually made, both or all the plies of the top are inserted between the plies There may be 9 of the band, as shown in Fig. 5, and the exposed fold i, after the collar is laundered and the top turned down for use, becomes a sharp and often broken edge, which islikely to hurt the wearer and present an untidy appearance; but my improved method of construction enables me to conceal the bandseam and fold, and present an unbroken smooth surface on the side of the collar next the wearer.

Collars have been made in which one or both of the top plies were integral with and formed a part of the band-plies. In such forms of construction the outer top ply or both plies would necessarily have an angular or rounded corner at the junction of the top part and the projecting button-hole end of the band part, as shown by dotted lines 7 in Figs. 1 and 2, and in stitching the two plies together raw edges must be exposed at the angle, or if the edges are folded in they will not lie out smooth,

and a thick ungainly seam will be produced, which will give the ends of the collar at the fold G a very untidy and variable appearance when the top is turned in use; but by extend ing the smooth end fold, F, down upon the independent band in a straight line, as I have shown and described, the parts are strengthened at the angle and the folds G present a uniform and graceful appearance.

That I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. Theherein-described method of making collars, which consists in banding one edge of the back ply of the extended end-folded top part of the collar, folding the outer ply of the top part upon the back ply by a longitudinal fold to such a depth that the outer ply of the top part overlaps and conceals the bandingseam, and causing the end folds of the outer ply to overlap and extend transversely in an approXimately-straight line across said banding-seam, and securing the outer ply in its folded position by a line of stitching extending along said end folds and overlapping edge, substantially as described, and for the purposes set forth.

2. The herein-described method of making collars, which consists in securing an inner ply and an outer ply, the latter being of greater width than the former, to an inde pendent band, the lower edge of the inner ply being secured to the upper edge of the said band, and the lower folded edge of the outer ply being secured to the inner lower edge of the said band, substantially as shown and described.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand this 25th day of February, 1886.

FREDERICK lH llllllllllfilS'lllll, .ln.

Vitnesses:

Gno. A. Mosnnn, XV. II. IIoLLis'rEn, Jr. 

